For breakfast I had the Perdekop MacMeal. The food of Kings.
I also bought a bicycle chain from the same store where I got my breakfast. This village is tiny and has like 4 shops. What were the odds that he would have a bicycle chain?
Nice chap, but I have a suspicion that he is not a South African citizen. Probably dons a Pakistan cap when watching cricket.
This is Freddy my host and aspiring mechanic.
He really looked after me and helped me oil my old chain.and fitted it back on the bike.
As soon as I got on my bike, I new I was in trouble. I felt sick, my body felt tired and my bum felt bruised. I started walking immediately. I was averaging just over 7km's per hour. Even Gungi, my mother-in-law, could waddle faster. I decided to just do what I could and try and make it to Volksrust. Volksrust is about 40km's into today's stage. I was intending to do about 95km's to Newcastle.
I almost forgot to take a picture of these, my constant companions. Some drivers waive and others hoot. I don't think I'll ever get used to how loud the horns are.
The fact that I had done 2 long days riding, with inadequate training, coupled with the fact that my nutrition was less than ideal, had now caught up with me. Also, one forgets what an effect a 10kg backpack and an additional 7 kgs on the bike has on oness performance. Then I remembered the cyclist from Bolivia that Eileen and I had seen in Namibia. This guy had cycled from South America. His nutrition could not always have been ideal, but his body must have adapted to a new routine. I must just be patient and allow this to happen. I also thought that the mornings breakfast would kick in and that I would then start feeling better. If not, then Volksrust would be it for the day.
About 3 hours into my day I started feeling better. At least the nausea had passed and there was a hint of a return of some energy.
Finally, after many conversations with myself and as many pit stops, I crawled into Volksrust. I must have walked about 20km's.of the 40 covered.
At the Wimpy I had a Dagwood breakfast, 3 beers and a cup of coffee. I decided to stay and started calling B&B's. I booked into one just outside town, on the way to Charlestown. As I approached it I decided WTF! I'm here on an adventure. Let's push the boundaries a little and step outside my comfort zone and see what happens. I have a hammock and it would be a sin not to use it.
I was riding on the verge of the tar road out past Charlestown when some locals told me of a railway service road halfway down into the valley. This was welcome news, because the railway lines once again headed for one of the numerous tunnels carved into the mountain side. This inevitability meant I would be going over the top. Imagine my glee at finding my own tunnel. Must have been used for railway lines once, but these had been lifted a while ago.
As I approached I was thinking that it must be 700m long and I thought I heard cows mooing. They were inside, just about 50m's in, but you could not see them till you got up close.
I turned on my light and chased them all the way to the other side.
As if by magic everything was better on the other side of the mountain. I'm telling you the grass WAS greener.
Trees lined the side of my track and it ran almost along a contour line slightly downhill for 20kms. No kidding. When you are tired 20kms of downhill is absolute bliss.
I was now feeling good and realized that I could make it to Newcastle in the daylight. This photo shows what clearly is some forestry section. I had to climb over some gates to get into and out of this section.
More tunnels for me and there was another just like it next to this one. A spare, if you will.
Once the trees disappeared, the valley below opened up to show off some beautiful farmsteads.
All accommodation in Newcastle had been sold out due to some regional municipal employee games. I finally got hold of Gerrit of Patterson B&B. He was also full and was already on holiday, but he made a few calls, only to confirm what I already knew. The town was full. What a decent chap. He went out of his way to help, whilst on holiday, without any benefit to him. Then knowing that I was cycling and desperate, he offered me the trees outside his apartment, where he hung his hammock or a room in his chalet, which housed his managers for the weekend. All this to a total stranger that he probably would never meet. Unbelievable.
That is the second act of extreme kindness someone has shown me in so many days.
Despite my cynicism, this shows that people are good at heart.
98km's in nearly 11 hours
Night Sweetie, tomorrow you will meet Ruffles.
